New Book from Woodsmith

The editors of Woodsmith and ShopNotes magazines have published a new woodworking book called, 200+ Woodworking Tips and Techniques. In addition to the 200+ tips in the book itself, it comes with a CD that includes 50 more tips, including videos.

This new book follows their previous tips compilation called 120+ Shop-Tested Tips and Techniques that went through four re-printings by my count, maybe five. In any case, they sold a ton of them, first on newsstands across the country, and then via email campaigns and on the WoodsmithStore.com.

Just how many woodworking tips are there in the world? I don't know. But I do know that there are few if any repeats of "old" tips in the new book (I couldn't find any). One way they achieved that is that the new book is heavy on techniques and light on quickie tips. So this book would make an excellent and obvious companion to the 120 tips book.

Like the first tips book, this is also 100 pages, soft-cover, no ads. And it's a typical Woodsmith production with excellent art and photography through out.

200+ Tips and Techniques is $9.95. Shipping and handling are free. For a while, you'll be able to buy one at a newsstand near you. And now, and into the future, at the WoodsmithStore.com.

Make Your Own File for Tight Spots

When smoothing curved profiles, you'll need a fine-cutting file to get into the inside corners that your sanding drum can’t reach. But the thick square edges of the file can get in the way and sometimes even damage the workpiece. So rather than abandon this method, Woodsmith's Ted Raife simply modified the tool to fit the job.

As you can see in the drawings above, he ground a bevel on both edges of the file to get more clearance in tight corners. You can make this modification with just a few minutes work at the bench grinder. But you want to be careful to not let the file get so hot that it loses its temper. Keep a container of water close by to quench it and this won't be a problem.

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Dogs that Don't Bite

I think we've all had this happen: You clamp a workpiece onto your bench for a little sanding or planning and then discover the faces of your metal bench dogs left their marks. There are lots of work arounds to avoid this happening, and this is one of the simplest and handiest.

See how to build these simple "dogs that don't bite" here. They're from the editors at Woodsmith magazine. You can get tips like these delivered to you computer each week. Sign up here.

Good-bye Baby Food Jars

When I was growing up a half-century or so ago, my father and grandfather stored screws, nails and other small hardware items in used baby food jars. Maybe there are fewer babies, or they're just not eating out of little glass jars. But I don't see the migration of jars from kitchen to shop anymore. For safety reasons, that's probably a good thing, but what's taking their place? Surely the modern woodworker has just as many odds and ends to save, label, and inventory?
Talking to Ted Raife at Woodsmith Magazine, I learned of one replacement: plastic containers that once held a stack of blank computer CDs.

The deep, clear plastic lids of these containers simply lock to the base with a slight twist. So Ted removes the center post from the base and then screws the base to the underside of a shop cabinet. The lid can then be filled with whatever hardware items require organization and quickly stashed out of the way, but easily accessible when needed.
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Heavy-Duty Push Block

Push blocks are essential safety tools for your table saw. But some push blocks are so wimpy, I wonder if they're all that much safer than no block.

Well, that won't be a problem with this push block. Phil Huber, at Woodsmith, made a sturdy push block that keeps hands well above the blade. And the wide body of the block pushes the workpiece on both sides of the saw blade.
For extra blade clearance, the thick body of the push block is glued up from two pieces of scrap. At the back, he screwed a ¼″ hardboard heel to catch the end of a board and push it through the blade, like you see in the photo.
An ordinary steel utility handle gives me a firm grip on the block. Once the bottom and the heel of the push block get chewed up, you can easily remove the handle and make a new block.
You can get more useful (and safe) ideas like this sent to your computer every week from the editors of Woodsmith Magazine. Here's the free sign-up.

Measuring Diagonals, Again

I talked about how to do this before, but this tip is even easier than the last one.

The last step to assembling a case is to make sure it's square. And the quickest way to do this is to measure diagonally from corner to corner. (If it's square these measurements will be the same. If not, you'll need to make some adjustments.) Using a tape measure is an easy way to check for square. The problem is that keeping the end of the tape on the corners can be difficult. But, as Woodsmith's Ted Raife shows us, a quick modification to the hook of the tape solves this problem.
To do this, simply cut a small slot on the hook with a rotary tool (or hack saw), see the drawing above right.
The slot slips over the point of the corner of the case, see the drawing and detail at right. The slot holds the tape in place for those large projects where an extra set of hands would be a big help. And it doesn't effect the tape measure's accuracy when I use it for other projects.

You can get more useful tips like this from the editors of Woodsmith Magazine. They're free. Here's where you can sign-up.

Rolling Sheet Goods Cart

Things were getting pretty crowded in my shop. So I asked Woodsmith's Phil Huber for a way store some extra plywood and MDF I have lying around. His rolling cart solution is especially convenient.
The cart has two sides. One side is designed to hold larger pieces. And the other is made to store smaller sheets and plastic buckets for small odds and ends of various sizes.
The cart is built using 2x4's for the base and uprights. Lengths of 3/4″ PVC pipe are used to make partitions for holding larger sheets on one side of the cart. A single PVC pipe is used on the other side and provides a place to hook a bungee cord for holding smaller pieces and plastic storage buckets in place. (Click on the drawing for a larger view).

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Checking for Square

The most reliable way to check an assembly for square is to compare diagonal measurements. The only drawback is that making these measurments accurately with only a tape measure is often easier said than done. But Ted Raife, an editor at Woodsmith Magazine, has a terrific idea. He made a very simple set of tape holders.
Each holder consists of a square block of plywood with two pieces of hardboard attached to adjacent sides, as shown in the drawings. The hardboard laps over the edges of the block on both sides so that the holder can hook over the corner of the assembly. The adjoining ends of the hardboard are mitered to form a slot that can hold the end of the tape or act as a "cursor" for your measurement (drawing and photo).

The holders make taking the two diagonal measurements quick and easy. One minor regret is that I no longer have any excuse for an out of square assembly.

You can get tips and ideas like this sent to your computer every week from the editors of Woodsmith Magazine. They're free, sign up here.

Adjustable Bench Stop

For years, I relied on a simple board clamped to the end of my workbench to keep a workpiece in place whenever I had to smooth it with a hand plane or belt sander. But I finally grew tired of the hassle of positioning and clamping the stop every time it was needed--I wanted a more convenient solution. And Ted Raife at Woodsmith Magazine had one.
The adjustable end stop you see in the drawings (click drawings for larger view) shows his solution. The stop has a pair of angled slots intersected by a series of stepped vertical slots. Gently tightened lag screws allow easy adjustment of the stop to the correct height by positioning it in the appropriate set of vertical slots. Or you can drop the stop below the surface of the benchtop, as also shown.
For more great tips like these from Ted and the other editors at Woodsmith magazine, sign up here. They come weekly and they're free.

[Thanks Ted]

Classic Cherry Bed Mod

Those of you who are regular Woodsmith readers will recognize the Classic Cherry Bed in the photo. It complements several bedroom furniture projects that had appeared in earlier issues.

But wait, something's not quite right. Can you guess?

The bed was built by WoodNet Forums member Borderline. He says:

This bed is a combination of many plans I have seen. Many of the features are from the Woodsmith plans (classic cherry bed), however, I did not curve the upper rails and all of the slats are real M&T joints. The side rails are 1.5" think and attached with KD fasteners (the mortise type, not surface mount).
The rails on the headboard/footboard, the side rails and the legs are all laminated from 4/4 stock and "veneered" with 1/16th shop sawn "Veneer", the rails are also capped with a decorative piece that hides the lamination.

Looks terrific. Great job! Read the discussion here.

Crosscutting Bowed Boards

When it comes to crosscutting a board to length, I really appreciate my sliding compound miter saw. But cutting a bowed board always made me a bit nervous, at least until recently.
That's because a bowed board often rocks back and forth on the saw table, so it's hard to make a controlled cut. Worse yet, the workpiece can pinch against the sides of the blade as you make a cut, causing a dangerous kickback. Fortunately, there's a simple trick that will help reduce the chance of this happening.
Start by placing the board on the saw table so the bow faces up (Detail a). Then make a couple of shallow passes (about a 1/4" deep), overlapping them to form one wide kerf. Now make a full-depth cut all the way through the board (Detail b).

As the saw blade cuts completely through, the board will "settle" a bit so it sits flat on the saw table. But it won't pinch the sides of the blade. The wide kerf provides the extra clearance that's needed to prevent the blade from binding. The end result is a safe, controlled cut.

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New Media Center in Woodsmith

Woodsmith has published several TV cabinet projects over the years. They’re handsome, sturdy, and… largely obsolete. The new flat screen TV’s don’t fit in the old cabinets. So this time, the designers created a Media Center that won’t go out of style or become obsolete.

The Center begins with a base cabinet that can accommodate a 42″ television and all the boxes and cables that go with it. This can be a stand alone unit. Or as space, time, and needs allow, you can add the side cabinets and the bridge over the TV. The cases are plywood with hardwood edging. The doors are frame and panel.

Woodsmith is calling No. 180 the Special Storage Issue. It also includes Hanging Wall Shelves and a Snack Tray Cabinet. And there are technique articles on making cove molding on the table saw and tenons on the router table.

Subscribers will see this issue in the mail boxes very soon. You’ll also find it on the newsstand, and you can visit Woodsmith.com to check out the issue and ask for a free preview issue.

Improved Sanding Block

For the longest time, I used a scrap piece of wood for a sanding block. It was simple and didn’t cost much. But it never worked as well as I would've liked — the sandpaper tended to shift around and tear. Then, the guys at Woodsmith came up with a "new" sanding block that works really well. Not only does it fit my hand perfectly; it also holds the paper in place using plastic tubing.
To make the sanding block, first I found a "palm-sized" scrap block and drilled a couple of rounded channels across the top of the block. (To do this, you'll need a 1/2"-dia. Forstner bit.) Finally, round the nose of the block on a belt sander, and if you want to get really fancy, you can rout a finger grip on each side. Note: Click on the drawing for a larger view.
The sandpaper is held in place by two pieces of 1/2"-dia. plastic tubing that are cut to length and pressed into the channels. To use the sanding block, simply secure the back end of the sandpaper with one of the plastic tubes. Then wrap the paper around the block and secure the other end the same way.
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Applying Edging

Gluing hardwood edging to plywood has never been one of my favorite tasks. It’s always tricky to keep the edging from slipping while tightening down the clamps. So to help hold the edging in place, I made some special clamping blocks. These blocks have a shallow, wide groove on one side that's sized to just fit over the edging and plywood. This holds the edging flush with the plywood. (Click on the drawing for a larger version.)

In case you're wondering, to prevent the blocks from getting glued to the workpiece, I apply wax to the surface of the blocks before using them.

You can have tips like this delivered to your computer every week from the editors of Woodsmith Magazine. They're free.

Putty Trick

When filling nail holes with putty, I used to smear the putty around without too much thought. This caused problems if the putty was lighter or darker than the wood around it and resulted in large blotches (instead of tiny nail-sized spots). Fortunately, I found a better way to fill the holes with less mess.

Before even picking up the hammer and nails, first I apply a strip of masking tape. Then I drive in the nails or brads and set the heads like I normally would. Finally, I force the putty into the holes and remove the tape. The small “bump” of putty that remains can be easily sanded away.

You can get woodworking tips like this delivered to your computer every week from the editors of Woodsmith magazine. Click here to sign up.

Sanding Pad

Here's a quick tip as we go about our various home improvement and woodworking projects this weekend.

Fold a quarter sheet (or half sheet) of sandpaper into a pad that eliminates the usual grit-to-grit contact. What’s nice about this pad is the unexposed surfaces won’t wear as you sand with the outer surface. The pad also works great when sanding a project on the lathe. With four layers of insulation, my fingers don’t get as hot.

To fold the pad, first make a single cut to the center of the sheet. Then follow the steps shown below. To expose a new surface, simply refold the pad.

You can get woodworking tips delivered to your computer each week from the editors of Woodsmith Magazine. They're free. Here's the sign-up.

Library Table

The project designers at Woodsmith Magazine have really out done themselves with the Craftsman-Style Library Table in Issue 179 (it's the October/November issue). I saw the finished table in the lobby and couldn't take my eyes off it. From the intro page:

It starts with a solidly built frame with a beefy top. The square, gently eased edges create clean, crisp lines. The minimal amount of aesthetic detail is aided by the appearance of through tenon joinery and the gracefully shaped corbels attached beneath the upper rails.

Even the editor waxes poetic when describing it. Check it out on the newsstand, or visit Woodsmith.com and ask for a free preview issue.

Mitered Half Laps

Joinery is what it's all about. Great joinery is great woodworking. And when we think of great joinery we always think of... dovetails. But there's more, and one of my favorites is the mitered half lap. It's not all that hard to make if your table saw blade is sharp and properly adjusted, and you keep your wits about you.
A while ago, Woodsmith posted a video on their website to accompany an article in Issue 167 that makes it look easy.
Mitered half laps is also one of the many table saw techniques covered in the ShopNotes book, Table Saw: Tough Cuts Made Easy. See more at WoodsmithStore.com.

Repairing Loose Tenons

It's frustrating when you cut a mortise only to find out your tenon doesn't fit snugly. Luckily, though, there's an easy fix that doesn't require cutting new mortises. The key is to build up the tenon instead.
A simple fix for a round tenon is to glue on a shaving from a hand plane. Then sand the tenon to fit snugly in the mortise.
For square tenons, glue a thin piece of wood veneer to each cheek. Gluing veneer to both checks ensures the tenon will be centered in the mortise. Orient the grain in the same direction to get a strong glue joint, too. Again, once the glue dries, trim the tenon to fit snugly in the mortise.

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Finding the Straight Grain

Recently, I was at the home center, trying to find a really straight 2x4, and knowing that even a straight 2x4 might bow or twist when I get it back to the shop, or worse yet, after it's machined it to its final dimensions. Anyway, I wasn't having much luck.
Then I remembered one way the guys in the Woodsmith shop get dimensionally stable lumber is to start with a wider board like a 2x8 or 2x10 that has a 2"- to 4"-wide strip of straight-grained material near each edge. They rip off the edges to get at the good stuff.
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